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Alopecia in Black Women: Common Causes & How To Diagnose It

Alopecia in Black Women: Common Causes & How To Diagnose It

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What are your biggest hair concerns as a Black woman?

Thousands of Black women experience hair loss every year. Black women’s hair loss has many different causes, from styling practices to hormonal factors. Early diagnosis is critical for finding the right treatment for hair loss in Black women, due to the similar presentations of many of the most common types of alopecia.

Executive summary

Discover the most common types of hair loss affecting Black women, how to recognise their symptoms, and the factors that can contribute to them.

Key takeaways

  • Black women are particularly susceptible to traction alopecia, central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (CCCA) and female pattern hair loss.

  • Tight hairstyles, heavy extensions and chemical relaxers can contribute to hair loss. If you’re experiencing scalp soreness, itching, burning, a receding hairline, or thinning at the crown, it’s time to seek professional hair loss advice.

  • Early diagnosis matters, as some types of hair loss are treatable and reversible when caught in the early stages.

  • Treatment options for hair loss conditions affecting Black women include minoxidil, corticosteroids, hormone-related medication and hair transplants, depending on the diagnosis. Changes to hair styling practices are also often recommended.

  • The Wimpole Clinic provides specialist consultations, thorough diagnostics and personalised treatment plans to help women understand and address their hair loss.

     

What types of hair loss commonly affect Black women?

Black women can be affected by many different types of hair loss, but the physical properties of Black hair increase the risks of certain hair loss types, especially when worn in heavy or tight protective styles. In the table below, we reveal which types of hair loss most commonly affect Black women, what symptoms look like, and which treatments can help.

ConditionSymptomsTreatments
Traction alopeciaHair loss and soreness around the hairline and temples, especially in those who wear prolonged or excessively tight protective styles.Styling adjustments, minoxidil, hair transplants (for severe/irreversible cases).
Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (CCCA)Hair loss on the top or crown of the scalp which spreads slowly. Often accompanied by inflammatory symptoms like burning, itchiness, and pain.Corticosteroids for reducing inflammation, minoxidil for early intervention. No treatment for permanent scarring hair loss.
Female pattern hair lossDiffuse hair loss with no pain or other symptoms. Hair loss gets progressively worse over time.Minoxidil, some anti-androgen treatments, hair transplants.

Traction alopecia

Traction alopecia is a hair loss condition caused by excessive tension on the hair follicles. It particularly affects Black women because it can be caused by wearing protective hairstyles for prolonged lengths of time, as well as tightly sew-in or glue-in wigs and weaves. Heavier or tighter styles are more likely to cause damaging tension.

black women with traction alopecia
Two Black women with symptoms of traction alopecia

Traction alopecia is normally temporary and reversible — if you stop wearing the damaging hairstyle. Continuing to put pressure on your follicles will make the alopecia worse, and may lead to permanent hair loss.

Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (CCCA)

Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia is a type of scarring alopecia that’s estimated to affect up to 5.6% of Black women [1]. Hair loss usually starts on the top or the crown of the head, and slowly expands outwards [2]. It may also be accompanied by symptoms of inflammation, such as redness, pain, burning, or itchiness [3].

CCCA has similar symptoms to other conditions, so it usually requires a professional diagnosis. As a scarring alopecia, CCCA is irreversible and leaves shiny scar tissue where the follicles are permanently damaged. Minoxidil and certain other treatments won’t work when your condition reaches this stage, so it’s important to seek early intervention.

Female pattern hair loss

Female pattern hair loss is the most common type of hair loss that affects women of all ethnicities. So Black women are also at risk of this type of hair loss. Female pattern hair loss tends to affect older women due to hormonal changes around and after menopause [4].

Unlike traction alopecia and CCCA, female pattern hair loss is painless. But it’s progressive and irreversible without treatment. Minoxidil is usually the first-line treatment, though other options may be available to some patients.

Other types of alopecia

Black women can be affected by many other hair loss conditions, including:

  • Telogen effluvium — Stress-related hair loss that can be triggered by chronic or extreme stress, trauma, or life events like childbirth or menopause.
  • Alopecia areata — An autoimmune condition that causes round or oval patches of hair loss across the scalp.
  • Frontal fibrosing alopecia — While more common in white women, frontal fibrosing alopecia is a type of scarring hair loss that can affect people of any gender and ethnicity.

How to tell the difference between traction alopecia vs CCCA

Traction alopecia and central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia can look and feel similar. Symptoms like pain and soreness around the areas of hair loss are common to both. But there are some typical distinctions between them:

  • Traction alopecia is more likely if you regularly wear heavy or excessively tight protective styles, wigs, or weaves, and hair loss is most evident around your hairline. The hair regrows if you remove the tension for a few months.
    Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia is more likely if your hair loss starts around your crown, where the underlying skin is shiny (due to scar tissue). The hair doesn’t regrow, and any remaining hair in the area may be broken or damaged.

A critical difference is that traction alopecia is reversible in the early stages, while CCCA causes permanent, irreversible hair loss. So if you’re unsure what’s causing your hair loss, it’s important to seek a professional diagnosis. At the Wimpole Clinic, we can diagnose the signs of alopecia in Black women, and offer the best treatments for female hair loss.

Diagnosing Black female hair loss

Female hair loss is notoriously hard to diagnose and treat, as many symptoms overlap, and there are often multiple underlying causes that need to be uncovered. That’s why a thorough assessment using state-of-the-art diagnostic tools and tests is essential. These tests may include:

  • Trichological exam — A trichologist examines your scalp under a microscope to establish key diagnostic markers (such as scarring) and changes to the hair follicle.
  • Blood tests — Hair loss blood tests offer important information about your thyroid, hormone, and nutrient levels to uncover any underlying causes of hair loss.
  • Lifestyle & medical questions — Your trichologist may ask questions about how you care for and style your hair, as well as questions about your medical history.

With this information, a qualified trichologist can diagnose what type of hair loss you have, and, where possible, help create a treatment plan to restore your hair.

Treating female Afro hair loss

Effective hair loss treatment depends on an accurate diagnosis, so that’s the first step. Here are some of the best treatments for Black female hair loss.

Minoxidil

Minoxidil works for traction alopecia and female pattern hair loss in the early stages. It dilates the blood vessels in the scalp, increasing the oxygen and nutrients that reach the follicles. It can also prolong the growth phase of the hair growth cycle [5].

Minoxidil is less effective for CCCA where scarring is already present, but it might help if applied before scarring takes place [6]. However, minoxidil probably won’t address the underlying cause of CCCA, and its effectiveness for CCCA hasn’t been established in independent trials.

2% Minoxidil for women is most often recommended, as it has a lower risk of facial hair growth compared with 5% minoxidil [7]. Bear in mind that your condition may continue if you stop using minoxidil (unless your hair loss is otherwise temporary, as in most cases of traction alopecia and telogen effluvium).

Styling changes

Altering your approach to haircare and styling is usually advised if you have symptoms of traction alopecia and/or CCCA. While there’s no direct evidence that hair styling causes CCCA, it’s often considered an aggravating factor. Your doctor may recommend one or more of the following changes:

  • Stop wearing wigs or weaves altogether, or replace them with lightweight clip-in options and remove them as often as possible.
  • Avoid wearing your hair in the same protective style for more than a couple of weeks. Give your hair a break from braids or other tight styles for several weeks in between.
  • Choose protective styles that are looser and don’t apply as much tension to the follicles.
  • Condition and moisturise your hair frequently to minimise breakage and hair damage. While not a direct cause of hair loss, hair dryness can cause the ends to break off, making it look thinner.
  • Avoid chemical relaxers and heat treatments, which have both been linked with CCCA [3].

Corticosteroids

Steroid creams for hair loss are sometimes used as part of a treatment plan for CCCA, as they can help manage symptoms of inflammation like itching and burning [6]. They’re also effective for some alopecia areata patients [8].

If topical steroids aren’t effective, oral or injectable steroids may be offered in severe cases.

Spironolactone

Spironolactone is an anti-androgen drug that’s sometimes used to treat female pattern hair loss. It adjusts your hormone levels, and is often used as a treatment for women with polycystic ovary syndrome.

You shouldn’t take spironolactone for hair loss if you’re pregnant or breastfeeding. This is a prescription drug prescribed off-label for hair loss, so speak to your doctor if you’re considering spironolactone as a treatment option.

Hair transplants

Many Black female hair loss patients opt for hair transplant procedures to restore their hair following permanent hair loss, whether from traction alopecia or female pattern hair loss. The Wimpole Clinic is a leading provider of hair transplants for Black female patients, thanks to our strong track record of results.

Alopecia in Black Women: Common Causes & How To Diagnose It, Wimpole Clinic
Before and 18 months after a 1700 graft FUT hair transplant.
hair transplant for traction alopecia in black woman
Before and 10 months after an 1800 graft FUT hair transplant.

The FUT technique is often preferred for Afro hair transplant patients, as it’s less likely to cause graft damage on extraction compared with FUE. Additionally, there’s usually no need to fully shave your head with FUT; the shaved area can be hidden with the rest of your hair.

Hair transplantation isn’t usually an option for CCCA patients, as the progressive, unstable nature of the condition means that results can be unpredictable [9].

Caring for Black hair to prevent hair loss

Safe styling and haircare practices can sometimes prevent hair loss in Black women, so it’s important to know what they look like. Here are some key tips for looking after your Afro hair to keep it intact:

  • Avoid tight hairstyles, sew-in weaves and extensions to reduce the risk of traction alopecia.
  • Try to limit the use of chemical relaxers and at-home heat treatments, as these can damage your hair, and have been linked with hair loss [10].
  • Use products specifically designed for your hair type to moisturise and condition your hair. Curly hair types often benefit from heavy conditioning agents like dimethicone. Hair oils can help lock moisture into your hair lengths.
  • Detangle your hair carefully from the ends using your fingers or a wide-toothed comb. Hair is particularly fragile when wet, so use plenty of conditioner when detangling.
  • Get any scalp conditions diagnosed and treated to avoid worsening symptoms or hair loss.

Bear in mind that some conditions, like female pattern hair loss and CCCA, are mostly hereditary. So while safe styling can help keep your hair healthy, it may not prevent hair loss completely.

Can braids, weaves, extensions, relaxers and tight hairstyles cause permanent hair loss?

Yes, braids, weaves, extensions, and chemical relaxers have all been linked with hair loss. Any type of hair attachment or heavy, tight styling technique can lead to permanent hair loss if worn too tightly or for too long. So mix up your styles regularly and try to leave your hair loose for extended periods in between, if possible.

When to seek specialist hair loss advice

You should seek advice from a qualified trichologist if you’re experiencing any of the following symptoms:

  • Burning, itching, or soreness on the scalp (especially if accompanied by patches of hair loss).
  • Receding hairline in women that doesn’t start to grow back within 3-4 months of removing sources of follicle tension.
  • Bald patches on the scalp that are round or oval in shape.
  • Areas of hair loss with shiny underlying skin (this may be scar tissue).
  • Increasing hair loss in the shower or on your pillow with no underlying changes to your haircare practices.

Getting hair loss advice at the Wimpole Clinic

The Wimpole Clinic is one of the world’s longest-serving hair transplant clinics. Established in 1975, we have more than 50 years’ experience dealing with all kinds of women’s hair loss, from female pattern baldness to traction alopecia.

Our specialists know that hair can be central to your identity. It’s why we approach every case with empathy and professionalism, offering thorough assessments and diagnostics to unearth the real cause of your hair loss. We then offer comprehensive treatment plans to help restore your hair.

Book a consultation to learn more about how our female hair loss treatment service works, and speak to our expert trichology team.

Alopecia in Black Women: Common Causes & How To Diagnose It, Wimpole Clinic

FAQs

Learn more about alopecia in Black women in these frequently asked questions.

The most common causes of alopecia in Black women include genetics, hormones, and damaging styling practices. While genetics and hormones are largely up to chance, you can reduce the risk of traction alopecia (and, to a lesser extent, CCCA) by limiting harmful styling techniques.

Hair loss at the crown can be a sign of CCCA, as this is where hair loss typically starts in this condition. However, it could also be a symptom of another type of hair loss, such as telogen effluvium or female pattern baldness.

Getting a professional assessment and diagnosis is the best way to determine what type of alopecia you have.

The early signs of traction alopecia include tenderness and pain around the hairline, or wherever tension is applied to the scalp. If you experience scalp tenderness due to your hairstyle, get the style removed or loosened to reduce the risk of traction alopecia.

Traction alopecia, CCCA and female pattern hair loss have similar signs of alopecia in Black women, so the best way to tell them apart is to get a professional diagnosis. However, there are some clues you can look for at home, such as:

  • Scalp soreness — Traction alopecia and CCCA are associated with pain and itchiness, while female pattern hair loss is completely painless.
  • Hair loss location — Traction alopecia tends to affect the hairline, while CCCA starts at the crown, before progressing to other areas. Female pattern hair loss usually presents as diffuse hair loss, so it can occur anywhere on the scalp.
  • Styling factors — Traction alopecia is heavily associated with protective styles, while CCCA has been linked with chemical relaxers [1]. Female pattern hair loss is genetic and isn’t usually linked with specific styles (though these can worsen your symptoms).
  • Age — Traction alopecia can happen at any age, while female pattern hair loss usually begins during or after menopause. CCCA is mostly seen in women in their 30s and 40s [3].

Yes — if you alter your hairstyle to remove tension on the follicles early enough, traction alopecia can stop and even reverse without intervention. However, sustained traction alopecia may become permanent.

Yes, evidence suggests hair relaxers can cause hair loss [10]. Chemical hair relaxers can also lead to hair damage, frizziness, dandruff, and more, so it’s important to limit your use of relaxers if you’re concerned about the condition of your hair.

Sources:
  1. Green, M., Feschuk, A., & Valdebran, M. (2023). Risk factors and comorbidities associated with central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia. International journal of women’s dermatology, 9(3), e108. https://doi.org/10.1097/JW9.0000000000000108.
  2. Blattner, C., Polley, D. C., Ferritto, F., & Elston, D. M. (2013). Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia. Indian dermatology online journal, 4(1), 50–51. https://doi.org/10.4103/2229-5178.105484.
  3. Gabros, S., Sathe, N. C., & Masood, S. (2024, March 13). Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia. In StatPearls. StatPearls Publishing. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK559187/.
  4. Chaikittisilpa, S., Rattanasirisin, N., Panchaprateep, R., Orprayoon, N., Phutrakul, P., Suwan, A., & Jaisamrarn, U. (2022). Prevalence of female pattern hair loss in postmenopausal women: a cross-sectional study. Menopause (New York, N.Y.), 29(4), 415–420. https://doi.org/10.1097/GME.0000000000001927.
  5. Suchonwanit, P., Thammarucha, S., & Leerunyakul, K. (2019). Minoxidil and its use in hair disorders: a review. Drug design, development and therapy, 13, 2777–2786. https://doi.org/10.2147/DDDT.S214907.
  6. Choi, J., Ilan, I., Tian, J. N., Balazic, E., Nwankwo, C., & Kobets, K. (2025). Central Centrifugal Cicatricial Alopecia: A Survey of Treatment Practices Among Dermatology Residents and Attending Physicians. Cureus, 17(9), e92780. https://doi.org/10.7759/cureus.92780.
  7. Dawber, R., & Rundegren, J. (2003). Hypertrichosis in females applying minoxidil topical solution and in normal controls. *Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 17*(3), 271–275. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1468-3083.2003.00621.x.
  8. Gregoire, S., McIntosh, B., Sanchez, K., Biba, U., & Mostaghimi, A. (2025). Local Corticosteroids for Alopecia Areata: A Narrative Review. Dermatology and therapy, 15(7), 1607–1631. https://doi.org/10.1007/s13555-025-01421-2.
  9. Singh, S., & Muthuvel, K. (2021). Role of Hair Transplantation in Scarring Alopecia-To Do or Not to Do. Indian journal of plastic surgery : official publication of the Association of Plastic Surgeons of India, 54(4), 501–506. https://doi.org/10.1055/s-0041-1739246.
  10. Shetty, V. H., Shetty, N. J., & Nair, D. G. (2013). Chemical hair relaxers have adverse effects a myth or reality. International journal of trichology, 5(1), 26–28. https://doi.org/10.4103/0974-7753.114710.

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